Have a look into our Downloadportal your will find manuals for heaters, control panels and installation guides there. Please consider them also before buying your heater.

No. Best is to place the heater inside the vehicle and have the room air intake and outlet in the car. Why not outside?! You'd suck in cold and maybe dirty air. Your heater won't be very efficient, having to heat up cold outside air all the time. Plus and even more importantly you may suck in exhaust fumes if the wind is turning or a maroccan sands storm.
For fresh air, just open a window, use a ventilation grid or open a roof hatch, this way you'll also get rid of condensat.
Please don't confuse the room air intake with combustion intake. You don't use and burn your oxygen by having the room air intake inside the car.

Intake is where the fan sits. This is the side where the cables are and the fuel hose.

Theoretically yes, in practice we are still waiting for it. Autoterm has engineered their heaters for petrol. But it is still not confirmed, when mass production and sales will start.

It is not per se neccessary, only if your exhaust is leading along flammable parts, which actually should not be the case for a proper installation.
If your exhaust pipe is not installed falling, you might use insulation to minimize condensate as good as it gets (often used for boats)

With most vehicles the mounting position of the heater is very different, therefore we do not have a kit for Jumper, Ducato etc. Only VW T5/T6 has the factory given mounting spot, so we have a kit.
We do have our 99%-Camper-Kit meanwhile, which consists of a choice of components, that will be suitable for 99% of the campervans.
If you want to order 100% individually needed components, you should know: The heater comes with everything it needs to run, when mounted in (!) the vehicle. You may need an individual amout of warm air hose and outlets, when placing your heater in a bench or box for example.
We recommend our mounting flange Tex1632 (or Tex1633 for cabins) for thermal insulation and it creates an even and easy mounting base.
In some cases it is possible to take fuel from an existing hose by a T-dispenser. Please check this option with your workshop and if possible, order the T dispatcher. Otherwise the heater comes with a fuel standpipe.
There is also heaps of other equipment such as Sleepwell intake air silencers or silent fuel pumps, longer panel cable etc. The shop will offer you optional parts, when buying a heater. You can also find it when browsing through our shop.

You will need patience, starting your heater for the first time after installation.
First of all, starting the system and preglowing will take a few minutes. Then your heater and pump will need a few starts to transport enough fuel all the way to the combustion chamber. Error 13 (fuel) is quiet common for a few times, when starting the heater for the first time.
Also a funny smell is quiet normal in the beginning when all the plastic parts get hot for the first time. This will pass after a few days of using the heater.

The heaters come with the (e) mark printed on them, so they do not need further registration through TÜV. With Autoterm Air, customers will get a duplicate sticker of the one, that's in the heater including the E, in case the heater is installed hidden.

compared to other systems and older heaters it will be much quieter. For exhaust every heater is delivered with an exhaust silencer. We do also have our supersilent exhaust silencer if you want it as quiet as it gets outside.
More important is the noise inside the car. Well, the air has to be moved inside your living room. Installing your heater outside does not really help and we do not recommend this. We offer our sleepwell hot air silencers, to reduce the noise of the van and aiflow in the car.
Also the pump has to work if your heater system is working (it should not be tied to tight btw). For very sensitive users, Autoterm has created an extra silent pump, available since end of 2018.
After all noise emission depends on how your heater and pump are installed in your vehicle.

From October/November 2018 on, all Autoterm air heaters 2D and 44D/4D do come as "Ural Edition" and are made for high altitudes also. Please find further information in the Ural Edition article discreption.
If you consider upgrading your air heater to the high altitude version, we'd have to check serial number first. Newer 2D and 44D/4D should be able to work with the high altitude control unit. In some cases, not only the control unit but also the glowplug has to be changed.
There's no altitude kits planned for Binar/Flow and Co.

Yes and no. In heating mode, the fan speed inevitably depends on the heating power. So if the heating power is reduced, then the fan speed is lower.
In fan-only mode, you can control the fan speed through changes in the the bar graph (PU27) or by turning the knob (PU5).

When you get your heater, the plug for the pump is not fixed to the cable yet, in order to lead it through the body of the car. If you connect it, it does not matter which way, as the pump is magnetic.

Your will find openings with grommets in your vehicle, often under the driver's or passanger's seat. These can be used for the pump wire.

2D needs 29 watt in highest mode and 10 watt in low mode. This is comparable with your numberplate light.
Nevertheless we recommend a second battery, in order not to drain the starter battery accidently.
44D/ Air 4D needs 10-62 watt.

Some customers ask, which battery to use for the heater. That's not easy to say, as numerous things are influencing this decision. Which kind of battery, temperature and most of all, most people do not use the battery only for the heater.
Let's calculate an example: We assume that the heater is the only consumer on a standard lead acid battery. We also assume that a 2kW diesel heater should run at full capacity for 10 hours a night. The electrical power consumption of the heater is a maximum of 29 watts. We calculate with 12V, so that there is a current of 30W / 12V = 2.5A. After 10h night 25Ah are gone. With a lead acid battery, you can only use 50% of its capacity. We also add a safety buffer of 30% on top. That means that we need at least 25Ah * 2 = 50Ah and with our safety buffer we end up with 50Ah * 1.3 = 65Ah necessary battery capacity. This calculation is base on normal room temperature! If the battery is mounted outside or in cold places , its additional capacity can be less, only 20% instead of 50%. Then you would already have a necessary battery size of 160Ah! As a basic rule, one can deduce: supply batteries belong in the heated interior! Somewhat realistically we saw the whole thing again with 8h sleep and 15W of knowledgeable power and come at room temperature on a lead acid battery of at least 26Ah for an 8-hour night. Things look better with other types of batteries (see lithium), because here not only 50% alone, maybe even 90% of the value can be used. Our "realistic" night above was survivable by a 15Ah battery;)

Unfortunately no. You cannot exchange parts that originally come with your genuine heater package.
Extra silent fuelpumps, supersilent exhaust silencer and others are additional parts.

PU-27 comes with an internal temperature sensor. You can - but you don't need to - add a second one, if you want to create a second temperature zone, for example in your pop up roof.
PU-5 is working in power mode, unless an external temperature sensor is added. So if you want to use PU-5 in temperature mode, you need the external one.
The external temperature sensor is not part of the heater kit, you'd need to order it seperately, if you want 2 temperature zones with PU-27 or PU-5 in temperature mode.

Within the heater there's temperatures of about 300 degrees celsius. Air outtake can have 80-100 degrees. Also the exhaust and bolts in the bottom of your heater will become very hot, therefore we recommend the flange.
The heater itself will only become handwarm on the outside. Nevertheless you are supposed do install it with 6cm room around it. And please do not put heat sensitive items too close to your heater.

A lot of people do not want to take fuel from their vehicle's tank because they are afraid to disassemble it. But this is the best way and intended by the manufacturer.
If your vehicle already has a heater, you may wanna T-tap the fuelhose. This is an additional equipment and does not come with the heater package.
Additional tanks are meant for boats and yachts. In Germany it is not allowed to install them in the inner space of your van or motorhome.
If you want to T-tap the fuel return hose, you have to make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of your tank. If not, your heater will not get enough fuel unless the car is topped up enough diesel all the time.

... please don't! Your heater will be exposed to dirt and splash, maybe even saltwater (winter or beach). It is not waterproof. The stainless steal box can prevent the worst, but it is still not the best solution. The heater does not like outside climate. It is meant to sit inside the vehicle and circulate the air there.
There's very few exceptions, amongst it is VW T5 / T6 as VW has prearranged for heaters and the T5/T6 come with a properly protected space for the heater under the van and warm air hoses prearranged.
With all other vehicles you'd also have the problem to drill 2 ca. 7cm holes on your floor for warm air intake and output. Also keeping in mind not to use a 90 degree bend straight after your heater. You'll probably loose some heat on the way from your heater to the inside of the car.

First of all, please do not reduce the cross section of your heater's warm air intake and outlet!
2D has 60mm. 44D/Air 4D is working with 90mm warm air duct. For the outlet you'll need an adapter to 90mm.
If you are working with warm air hoses, you'll need to remove the caps on your heater intake and/or outlet by turning and pulling a little.

You don't have the tools, workshop, know how or time to install your Autoterm heater? here's a list of our Autoterm partners.

There's heaps of youtube videos about how to install an Autoterm heater meanwhile. But please be careful, not all of them are according to the manuals and manufacturer's requirements You need to have a certain understanding and experience and please read Ethe manuals. In doubt, please contact one of our certified and trained partners. Nevertheless a few good clips ar linked here.