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faq for heaters and other things

Suchst du Hilfe zu Standheizungen?

Zum richtigen oder auch ungünstigen Einbau der Autoterm Air bzw. ehemals Planar Heizungen haben wir eine Themenseite Dos & Dont's zum Luftstandheizungseinbau erstellt.

Es gibt übrigens auch eine sehr gute Facebook-Gruppe für alle Fragen und unabhäniges Feedback rund ums Thema Autoterm Planar- und Binar-Heizungen.
Bei Problemen hilft die Liste mit den wichtigsten Fehlercodes und alle weiteren Fragen werden in den FAQ beantwortet.

Air Heaters (Planar, Air, etc.)

2D or 4D - which heater do I need?
It depends on the season and destinations you want to use your heater. Just make sure not to oversize the power of your heater. For up to 12-14 cubic meters and regular use (mainly in spring and autumn and sometimes in winter) we recommend 2D.
Keep in mind, if it's too warm outside or the room you want to heat is too small, your heater might create a sauna. Autoterm heaters are engineered not to switch off but regulate down. If the lowest level of your heater is still too much for the room you want to heat, it will create the mentioned sauna, plus it is not good for your heater as it will get sooty. You'd need to run it on highest power regularely for at least 30min. to burn all the soot. There's no warranty on soothy combustion chambers.
manuals - where do I find manuals and installation guides?
Have a look into our Downloadportal your will find manuals for heaters, control panels and installation guides there. Please consider them also before buying your heater.
Intake of room air - should I suck in my room air from the outside?
No. Best is to place the heater inside the vehicle and have the room air intake and outlet in the car. Why not outside?! You'd suck in cold and maybe dirty air. Your heater won't be very efficient, having to heat up cold outside air all the time. Plus and even more importantly you may suck in exhaust fumes if the wind is turning or a maroccan sands storm.
For fresh air, just open a window, use a ventilation grid or open a roof hatch, this way you'll also get rid of condensat.
Please don't confuse the room air intake with combustion intake. You don't use and burn your oxygen by having the room air intake inside the car.
Intake and outlet - which side is the hot air outlet and which is the intake?
Intake is where the fan sits. This is the side where the cables are and the fuel hose.
Petrol air heaters - is there an Autoterm Air 2B or 4B for petrol cars?
Theoretically yes, in practice we are still waiting for it. Autoterm has engineered their heaters for petrol. But it is still not confirmed, when mass production and sales will start.
insulation of the exhaust - how hot will it get, do I need insulation?
It is not per se neccessary, only if your exhaust is leading along flammable parts, which actually should not be the case for a proper installation.
If your exhaust pipe is not installed falling, you might use insulation to minimize condensate as good as it gets (often used for boats)
mounting kit - what do I need to order with my heater?
With most vehicles the mounting position of the heater is very different, therefore we do not have a kit for Jumper, Ducato etc. Only VW T5/T6 has the factory given mounting spot, so we have a kit.
We do have our 99%-Camper-Kit meanwhile, which consists of a choice of components, that will be suitable for 99% of the campervans.
If you want to order 100% individually needed components, you should know: The heater comes with everything it needs to run, when mounted in (!) the vehicle. You may need an individual amout of warm air hose and outlets, when placing your heater in a bench or box for example.
We recommend our mounting flange Tex1632 (or Tex1633 for cabins) for thermal insulation and it creates an even and easy mounting base.
In some cases it is possible to take fuel from an existing hose by a T-dispenser. Please check this option with your workshop and if possible, order the T dispatcher. Otherwise the heater comes with a fuel standpipe.
There is also heaps of other equipment such as Sleepwell intake air silencers or silent fuel pumps, longer panel cable etc. The shop will offer you optional parts, when buying a heater. You can also find it when browsing through our shop.
first start - my heater does not start properly the first time and may smell funny, what's wrong?
You will need patience, starting your heater for the first time after installation.
First of all, starting the system and preglowing will take a few minutes. Then your heater and pump will need a few starts to transport enough fuel all the way to the combustion chamber. Error 13 (fuel) is quiet common for a few times, when starting the heater for the first time.
Also a funny smell is quiet normal in the beginning when all the plastic parts get hot for the first time. This will pass after a few days of using the heater.
(E)-mark - is the heater subject to registration (TÜV)?
The heaters come with the (e) mark printed on them, so they do not need further registration through TÜV. With Autoterm Air, customers will get a duplicate sticker of the one, that's in the heater including the E, in case the heater is installed hidden.
noise - how noisy will the heater be?
compared to other systems and older heaters it will be much quieter. For exhaust every heater is delivered with an exhaust silencer. We do also have our supersilent exhaust silencer if you want it as quiet as it gets outside.
More important is the noise inside the car. Well, the air has to be moved inside your living room. Installing your heater outside does not really help and we do not recommend this. We offer our sleepwell hot air silencers, to reduce the noise of the van and aiflow in the car.
Also the pump has to work if your heater system is working (it should not be tied to tight btw). For very sensitive users, Autoterm has created an extra silent pump, available since end of 2018.
After all noise emission depends on how your heater and pump are installed in your vehicle.
High altitude - which heaters are made for high altitudes?
From October/November 2018 on, all Autoterm air heaters 2D and 44D/4D do come as "Ural Edition" and are made for high altitudes also. Please find further information in the Ural Edition article discreption.
If you consider upgrading your air heater to the high altitude version, we'd have to check serial number first. Newer 2D and 44D/4D should be able to work with the high altitude control unit. In some cases, not only the control unit but also the glowplug has to be changed.
There's no altitude kits planned for Binar/Flow and Co.
Fanspeed - how can I change the speed of the ventilation?
Yes and no. In heating mode, the fan speed inevitably depends on the heating power. So if the heating power is reduced, then the fan speed is lower.
In fan-only mode, you can control the fan speed through changes in the the bar graph (PU27) or by turning the knob (PU5).
Polarity and wiring of the pump - how to connect the pump?
When you get your heater, the plug for the pump is not fixed to the cable yet, in order to lead it through the body of the car. If you connect it, it does not matter which way, as the pump is magnetic.

Your will find openings with grommets in your vehicle, often under the driver's or passanger's seat. These can be used for the pump wire.
power - how much power does the heater need?
2D needs 29 watt in highest mode and 10 watt in low mode. This is comparable with your numberplate light.
Nevertheless we recommend a second battery, in order not to drain the starter battery accidently.
44D/ Air 4D needs 10-62 watt.

Some customers ask, which battery to use for the heater. That's not easy to say, as numerous things are influencing this decision. Which kind of battery, temperature and most of all, most people do not use the battery only for the heater.
Let's calculate an example: We assume that the heater is the only consumer on a standard lead acid battery. We also assume that a 2kW diesel heater should run at full capacity for 10 hours a night. The electrical power consumption of the heater is a maximum of 29 watts. We calculate with 12V, so that there is a current of 30W / 12V = 2.5A. After 10h night 25Ah are gone. With a lead acid battery, you can only use 50% of its capacity. We also add a safety buffer of 30% on top. That means that we need at least 25Ah * 2 = 50Ah and with our safety buffer we end up with 50Ah * 1.3 = 65Ah necessary battery capacity. This calculation is base on normal room temperature! If the battery is mounted outside or in cold places , its additional capacity can be less, only 20% instead of 50%. Then you would already have a necessary battery size of 160Ah! As a basic rule, one can deduce: supply batteries belong in the heated interior! Somewhat realistically we saw the whole thing again with 8h sleep and 15W of knowledgeable power and come at room temperature on a lead acid battery of at least 26Ah for an 8-hour night. Things look better with other types of batteries (see lithium), because here not only 50% alone, maybe even 90% of the value can be used. Our "realistic" night above was survivable by a 15Ah battery;)
change of extra silent fuelpump, supersilent exhaust silencer & co. - can I just swap them?
Unfortunately no. You cannot exchange parts that originally come with your genuine heater package.
Extra silent fuelpumps, supersilent exhaust silencer and others are additional parts.
temperature sensor - do I need to order an external one?
PU-27 comes with an internal temperature sensor. You can - but you don't need to - add a second one, if you want to create a second temperature zone, for example in your pop up roof.
PU-5 is working in power mode, unless an external temperature sensor is added. So if you want to use PU-5 in temperature mode, you need the external one.
The external temperature sensor is not part of the heater kit, you'd need to order it seperately, if you want 2 temperature zones with PU-27 or PU-5 in temperature mode.
temperature of the heater - how hot will the device become?
Within the heater there's temperatures of about 300 degrees celsius. Air outtake can have 80-100 degrees. Also the exhaust and bolts in the bottom of your heater will become very hot, therefore we recommend the flange.
The heater itself will only become handwarm on the outside. Nevertheless you are supposed do install it with 6cm room around it. And please do not put heat sensitive items too close to your heater.
tank withdrawal - easy way would be the T, is that possible?
A lot of people do not want to take fuel from their vehicle's tank because they are afraid to disassemble it. But this is the best way and intended by the manufacturer.
If your vehicle already has a heater, you may wanna T-tap the fuelhose. This is an additional equipment and does not come with the heater package.
Additional tanks are meant for boats and yachts. In Germany it is not allowed to install them in the inner space of your van or motorhome.
If you want to T-tap the fuel return hose, you have to make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of your tank. If not, your heater will not get enough fuel unless the car is topped up enough diesel all the time.
underfloor installation - I want to install the heater underneath the vehicle.
... please don't! Your heater will be exposed to dirt and splash, maybe even saltwater (winter or beach). It is not waterproof. The stainless steal box can prevent the worst, but it is still not the best solution. The heater does not like outside climate. It is meant to sit inside the vehicle and circulate the air there.
There's very few exceptions, amongst it is VW T5 / T6 as VW has prearranged for heaters and the T5/T6 come with a properly protected space for the heater under the van and warm air hoses prearranged.
With all other vehicles you'd also have the problem to drill 2 ca. 7cm holes on your floor for warm air intake and output. Also keeping in mind not to use a 90 degree bend straight after your heater. You'll probably loose some heat on the way from your heater to the inside of the car.
warm air duct - which size do I need?
First of all, please do not reduce the cross section of your heater's warm air intake and outlet!
2D has 60mm. 44D/Air 4D is working with 90mm warm air duct. For the outlet you'll need an adapter to 90mm.
If you are working with warm air hoses, you'll need to remove the caps on your heater intake and/or outlet by turning and pulling a little.
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You don't have the tools, workshop, know how or time to install your Autoterm heater? here's a list of our Autoterm partners.
youtube - can I see a youtube video and install my heater by myself?
There's heaps of youtube videos about how to install an Autoterm heater meanwhile. But please be careful, not all of them are according to the manuals and manufacturer's requirements You need to have a certain understanding and experience and please read Ethe manuals. In doubt, please contact one of our certified and trained partners. Nevertheless a few good clips ar linked here.
too hot - my heater does not switch to standy or does not regulate down.
That's possible and how the heaters are designed. They are meant to regulate down to the right temperature. If outside temperatures are to hot and/or the room you want to heat is too small, even the lowest level of your heater will be too much.
Since the heaters come as Ural Edition the algorithms are complex and you may have the feeling, your heater does not react. Please be patient. Usually people are not when first trying their heaters. Later on you should not realize any more, that your heater is calculating and regulating all the time.

Commented error code list

Error 01 / 1 blink - Heat Exchanger Overheat

The sensor sends a signal to shut down the heater. Heat exchanger temperature in the sensor zone is over 250°C

The most common problem leading to this error is severe obstruction of the air flow. The heater generates a certain amount of heat, which needs to be transported off the heat exchanger through a certain amount of air. If that can not happen. The heat exchanger overheats. Usually the warm air system is too long, too complicated or in gerneral: Air flow resitance is too high. Test without air ducts and modify air duct system if needed.

An obstructed fan can also lead to reduced airflow. Check for collisions of fan and casing. If so, overtightened mounting bolts can lead to case torsion and therefore reduced fan speed. Also mountain sufaces that are not 100% plain can lead to such symptoms.

The sensor might need replacement.

Error 02 / 12 blinks - Air intake temperature sensor on control unit has overheated

Control unit is insufficiently cooled down during 5 min. purging before startup; or overheating of the control unit during operation. Sensor exceeded 55°C.

Check the intake and outlet of the heating unit for unobstructed entry and exit of air and re-start the heater to cool it down.

Replace the control unit.

Error 04 / 05 / 06 - temperature sensor
Error 05 indicates a short circuit or missing connection of the temperature sensor. Please check wiring.
If there is an error 04 or 06, the temperature sensor on the control unit might not work.
Error 07 - Overheat sensor
Faulty sensor. Oxidation of contacts in the terminal block.
Check overheat sensor circuit for an open. Remove oxidation from the connector contacts.
Error 08 or 29 / 3 blinks - Flame failure
Flame failure during operation of the heater caused by insufficient fuel supply, faulty fuel pump or faulty flame indicator.
Please check for leaks or clogging of fuel lines, tighten the clamps on the fuel lines. Check combustion air intake and exhaust pipe. Check the amount of fuel supplied by the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. If the heater starts, check flame indicator and replace it if needed.
Error 09 / 4 blinks - Faulty glow plug
Short circuit, open circuit, faulty control unit.
Check glow plug, replace if necessary. Check the control unit, replace if necessary
Error 10 / 11 blinks - missing speed in the electric motor of the air blower
Electric motor of the air blower does not develop the necessary speed caused by increased friction in the bearings or contact between the impeller and fan shroud in the blower or maybe an faulty electric motor.
Check electric motor, if possible correct the fault; replace air blower if necessary.
error 12 or 15 / 9 blinks - battery voltage too high or low
Error 12 shuts down because ov an overvoltage, error 15 because of low voltage. These errors are caused by faulty voltage regulators or faulty (old) batteries.
Please check battery terminals and wiring. You may also wanna try starting your heater while the car is running or wire the heater direcly to the battery in order to check battery voltage or wiring is faulty. Renew battery or wiring if necessary.
error 13 / 2 blinks - 99% caused by missing fuel
Error 13 mainly means: The heater does not start - two automatic start attempts have failed.
Although this may have different causes in 99% it's missing fuel. Please check whether there is enough fuel in the tank. Futhermore check for air bubbles, leaks or blockages in fuellines. Also check the the fuel pump is working properly. Also the fuel grade may not be sufficient in low temperatures.
This error is normal during initial start after reinstalling a heater, and occurs several times until enough diesel has been pumped.
To solve this, please fill up tank, eliminate fuel line leakage or blockage. Check the performance of the fuel pump, replace if necessary.
Other rare causes include clogged exhaust duct or combustion air intake or the impeller touches the fan shroud in the blower, and, as a result, flow of air into the combustion chamber is reduced. In very rare cases, insufficient preheating of the glow plug or a faulty control unit can be the reason for this error. Check glow plug; clean, replace and insert correctly, maybe replace the glow plug screen also. Check voltage supplied by control unit.
error 16 / 10 blinks - temperature sensor was not cooled down / time for ventilation was exceeded
This error means, during 5 min purge before start-up, temperature sensor was not sufficiently cooled.
Check the intake and output of the heater for unobstructed entry and exit of air. Also check the integrity of the fan and its operation. Check the sensor, replace if necessary.
error 17 / 7 blinks - fuel pump
You may have a short or open circuit in the wiring of the fuel pump. Please check the wiring of the fuel pump and also wires to overheat sensor for insulation.
error 20 or 30 / 8 blinks - communication failure between controller and the control unit
The heater does not start due to missing communication between controller and control unit, mening the control unit receives no data from the controller or the other way round.
Check the connectors and the green and white wire in the connecting harness. Remove oxidation from connectors. Check the controller and the connecting harness, replace if necessary. If the controller is operational, replace the control unit.
Error 20 may also be caused by a burnt out fuse on the power harness, check and replace fuse if necessary.
error 27 / 11 blinks - motor does not rotate
This may be caused by a damaged bearing or rotor, foreign objects, etc.
Check connectors and wiring leading to the electric motor board and the control unit. Eliminate the fault, if possible
error 28 / 11 blinks - motor speed is not regulated
Faulty electric motor control board or heater CU. You may have to replace the air blower.
error 78 / 3 blinks - warning, error 13 may occur next
This is more a warning than an error code. It means an flame failure has occured during operation. This may be caused by air bubbles in fuel system, a faulty fuel pump or faulty flame indicator.
Check fuel lines for leaks or clogging, tighten fuel line hoseclamps and check combustion air intake and exhaust duct in order to avoid error 13 or the like.

Water Heaters (Binar, Teplostar 14tc-mini, Flow)

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Der Eingangsdruck muss wenigstens 1 bar über dem Eichdruck liegen:
- Schließen Sie das nachstehende Absperrventil
- Drehen Sie die obere Schutzkappe ab (Abb.4.1)
- Drehen Sie mit einem Inbusschlüssel oder einem Schlitzschraubendreher die Schraube auf der Spitze in Uhrzeigersinn, wodurch sich der nach stehende Druck erhöht
- durch Drehen in Gegenuhrzeigersion reduziert sich der nachstehende Druck (Abb. 4.3)
- Führen Sie einige Auslauftests durch, um zu kontrollieren, ob die Eichung stabil ist
- Die exakte Kalibrierung ist nur im Drucklosen Zustand mit angeschlossenem Manometer und bei Raumtemperatur möglich.
- Drehen Sie die Schutzkappe wieder auf.

tigerexped
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tigerexped is your store for the conversion of campers, offroaders and exmos. We put an end to your search across the internet, because here you can find everything from one source.

Our claim: a travel-proven, sensible assortment without profit-optimized frills. tigerexped dedicates itself to this motto since an Asian "expedition" (short: exped) in a T3 syncro with tiger stripes.

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