• Without the control panel, the boiler water temperature cannot be displayed.
• The boiler temperature cannot be controlled via the heater.
• No frost protection function via the heater.
• No overheating protection when operating via the heater.

The Autoterm Comfort Boiler Control (ACBC) control panel only controls operation via the air heater.
The electrical heating and cooling circuits are controlled and monitored separately; see the FAQ below.

The monitoring and control of the boiler temperature occurs independently depending on the heating method – electric, air heating, or water circuit.

This means that the Boiler Control heating control unit does not control the electric heating element or even the cooling circuit. Thermostat relays – or, in the case of 110/230V boilers, the integrated control of the electric heating element – ​​are used for this purpose.

Please refer to the manuals for all devices – boilers and relays – for controlling and monitoring your combiBOIL!
First, some general information:

Air Heating Operation & Autoterm Comfort Boiler Control

If the combiBOIL is combined with the Autoterm Comfort Boiler Control (ACBC), the ACBC's temperature sensor constantly measures the boiler water temperature when the auxiliary heater is running. If the measured boiler temperature rises above 85°C, the ACBC interrupts the combustion process and switches to fan operation until the boiler temperature drops to 75°C. After that, the combustion process continues. This function applies exclusively to heating the water with the Autoterm air heater.

Electric Heating

If the water is heated electrically, an external thermostat relay (TSR) is included for the 12V and 24V versions of the boiler (boilers from 11/23 onwards). This measures and regulates the boiler temperature for electric operation, independently of the ACBC. The on and off temperature must be defined in advance in the TSR relay (see its instructions!). If the water temperature rises above 65°C (recommended setting), the relay switches off the heating element. If it drops to 60°C (recommended setting), the relay switches the heating element back on. The instructions for the thermostat relay must be strictly followed and a switch must be installed.

For the 110V and 230V (9L and 12L only) versions of the combiBOIL, the temperature control is integrated into the boiler. The heating element switches off at a fixed setting of 65°C and switches on again at 56°C. We recommend connecting the heating element to the 230V mains via an illuminated switch for better control.

Cooling Circuit

If you connect the boiler to the vehicle's cooling circuit ( Cooling Water Circuit Kit ), it is also necessary to integrate a temperature control. For this purpose, another TSR temperature-sensitive relay is used, which also measures the water temperature in the boiler and, using a switchable bypass, directs the cooling water through the boiler or bypasses it depending on the temperature.

Here, too, the instructions for the temperature-sensitive relay apply! At a temperature of 75°C (recommended setting), the relay should switch the bypass and pump the cooling water past the boiler. At 70°C (recommended setting), the relay switches back, and the cooling water flows through the boiler again.

When heating via air heater: Approximately 1 hour, regardless of the boiler and heater size.

When operating via the engine cooling circuit, a heating time of approximately 20 minutes is realistic when the engine is running at operating temperature.

When using electricity, the time depends on the power of the heating element. For example, if a 7-liter boiler with 300W power is to be heated from 15°C to 65°C, it takes approximately 84 minutes. The heating time can be easily calculated yourself. Calculate:
(Target temperature in °C – Starting temperature in °C) x boiler volume in L x 1.2 / boiler heating power in watts x 60 = heating time in minutes.

If you'd like to learn more about the required heating times, check out our comprehensive magazine article on this topic.

It doesn't matter in which direction the warm air from the air heater is directed through the boiler. What matters is that it can flow straight through the boiler without any flow resistance.

The cold water connection must always be at the bottom, and the hot water connection at the top. Since the combiBOIL's bracket can be rotated, it can be mounted on the wall, ceiling, or floor.

As a rule of thumb, at a shower temperature of 30°C, you can expect approximately twice the amount of ready-to-use water in relation to the boiler contents.
The amount of water available for showering, for example, depends roughly on how hot the water in the boiler is and how cold the cold water is mixed in. This determines the amount of water required, depending on the desired shower temperature.

A heating element with on-board voltage (12 or 24 V) should be chosen if you rely on the on-board power supply to operate it (i.e., you are NOT usually at a campsite or motorhome site with a power connection) and if there is no 230 V inverter in your system.

If an inverter is available, you can supply more electrical power to the boiler via a 230 V heating element, which will consequently heat the water faster.

Important: The coolant quantity in the engine cooling circuit must not change. Therefore, the engine cooling circuit and the boiler must be coupled via a plate heat exchanger or thermal valve.

Yes, for this, you connect piping suitable for underfloor heating, along with a circulation pump, a thermostatic valve, and an expansion tank. However, this installation is NOT intended to heat the vehicle! For example, you can install a small underfloor heating system under the seating area to keep your feet warm.
A ready-made kit for this is not currently available.

The boiler's inlet and outlet for the second water loop must not be occupied by the connection to the engine cooling circuit. To operate the towel dryer, connect appropriate piping, a thermostatic valve, and an expansion tank. Circulation occurs by gravity.

Caution: The towel dryer must not have more power than the heater/heating element can supply to the boiler.

More important than maintaining specific distances is this: The closer the two components are, the more important it is to have water overheat protection and use the appropriate mode in the boiler control panel. The further apart, the longer the heating time will be, but the risk of overheating will also be reduced. Approximately 50 cm is recommended and efficient for heating.

It should be noted that the system must be installed as straight as possible in order to function efficiently. For the smallest Warmduscher kit (2kW heater + 7L boiler), at least 108cm of space is required before proceeding with individual warm air piping/distribution.

For all other setups, heater, and boiler sizes, you can roughly add the lengths of the following components:

• Space in front of the air intake: 5cm
• (Optional Schlafgut silencer, 2D 44cm / 4D 64cm + 5cm connecting pipe)
• Air heater 2D 31cm / 4D 40cm
• Heat exchanger-boiler connection: 50cm is recommended
• Boiler 7L 42cm / 9L 48.5cm / 12L 58cm
• After that, individual Warm air circulation.

We've included everything needed for every installation—in a vehicle or boat—in the Warmduscher kit, so it's essentially ready-made and functional.
Depending on your initial situation, you may also need the following:

A pressure reducer must be integrated into the system when using pressure water pumps with more than 2.5 bar.

Heater flange/bracket. For vehicles, a floor flange must be ordered separately, if desired, depending on the existing floor thickness; for boats and yachts, an angle or U-bracket for the heater may be required. Even though the TWIN kit WITHOUT a boiler includes a flange, we assume that installing a Twin Warmduscher kit (i.e., two heaters WITH a boiler) may require more flexibility. For this reason, we want to leave the freedom of choice to you and not specify a specific flange when purchasing the Warmduscher kit. You can find all available installation flanges at Parking Heater Accessories

Extension cable for the control panel, if the desired location is more than 1.80 m from the heater.

Schlafgut silencer, if there is space and the heater fan noise needs to be dampened (we recommend on the intake side of the heater).

Hot air pipe, distribution, and outlets depending on your individual concept.

In our range, you will also find all other components for setting up the entire pressurized water system, such as certified drinking water hoses, pumps and accumulator tanks, installation materials such as clamp jaws, etc.

In our online magazine, there is a detailed article on what is included in each kit and what else might be needed.

Not yet, but we are currently testing various options.

Yes. The air heater and the second water circuit can be used and connected even when the boiler is dry. However, the combiBOIL must never be heated electrically if there is no water in it.

For small water systems with short pipe runs and a system pressure above 1.5 bar, a pressure storage tank is recommended upstream of the draw-off point to compensate for the increased pressure of the hot boiler water.
combiBOIL features a check valve that prevents the resulting pressure from expanding "backward." A pressure storage tank should therefore be used to protect hoses, fittings, or shower heads from damage caused by excessive (heat) pressure.

For long pipe runs, an accumulator tank is not absolutely necessary if the pressure can be distributed throughout the pipe system.